Start Here
Watch the video, then read the breakdown and the 90-day plan under it. Fifteen minutes total and it saves you a month of guessing.
The Breakdown
ReadPick your path
Don't do this course front to back unless you're starting from absolute zero. Two routes:
- Can't cut yet — Modules 1, 2, 3, 4 in order. Then 5, 6 and 8.
- Can cut, no clients — Go straight to Module 5, then 6, then 8. Come back to 3 when you want to sharpen up.
Most people who buy this can already cut a bit. If that's you, the money is in Modules 5, 6 and 8 — not 3.
The three habits that did it
People assume it was talent. It wasn't — I was bad for a long time. It was three things I did every single cut from the very beginning:
- Setup — the space was always clean, lit, and set up the same way. People judge the room before they judge the cut.
- Hospitality — water, music, conversation, no rushing. People book a feeling, then a haircut.
- Communication — replied to every DM fast, confirmed every appointment, never left anyone guessing.
None of that requires skill. All of it is available to you on day one, before you can fade properly. That's the point.
Do the work between modules
Modules 5, 6 and 8 give you things to go execute. Watching them back to back does nothing. One module, then go do it for a week.
You cannot learn to fade by watching. Every hour of video needs ten hours of reps. The video shows you what to practise — it doesn't replace the practise.
Claim your FORM8 Pro account now
Your enrolment includes barber pricing on FORM8 for life — $8 a unit instead of $16, six-unit minimum. Sell at $20 in your chair and eight units pays for this entire course.
Code ACADEMY at form8.us. Do it now so it's ready when you get to Module 08 — that's the module that turns it into real monthly money.
The First 90 Days
TimelineThis is the exact shape of the first three months. It's a timeline, not a rulebook — if you're ahead, move faster.
Week 1 — Set up and announce
Buy your kit and tell people
Two jobs this week. Get your tools, and make it public that you're cutting.
- Buy the starter kit from Module 01 — one good set, not three cheap ones
- Set your station up properly (chair, mirror, light, cart)
- Tell your friends, your family, your group chats: "I'm learning to cut. Free cuts while I practise."
- Make the Instagram account. Name, bio, city, DMs open.
Weeks 2–4 — Learn and rep
Modules 01–03, then cut everyone free
You're not trying to be good yet. You're trying to get volume through your hands.
- Work through Modules 01, 02 and 03 properly — don't skim
- Cut friends and family for free. Say yes to everyone.
- Film every cut. Before, guideline, one blend pass, line-up, reveal.
- Post daily. Follow everyone from school, work, your area, their friends.
- Photograph every finished cut from four angles under the same light
Weeks 5–8 — Referrals and your first money
Free ends. $5 begins.
Around ten free cuts in, stop. Past that you're training people to expect free.
- Ask every free client for one referral: "Know anyone who needs one?"
- Start charging $5. It's not about the money — it's about people paying you at all.
- Keep posting daily. Stories of every single cut.
- Reply to every DM within the hour
- Spend nothing on yourself. Every dollar goes back into the setup — lighting, a better seat, a cape, a neck duster.
Weeks 9–12 — Climb
Raise slowly, post constantly
Repeat clients mean your work is good enough to charge for. Start moving.
- $5 → $10 → $20 as the book fills. Raise when you're turning people away, not before.
- Rebook everyone in the chair: "Same time in two weeks?"
- Keep reinvesting — better clippers, better light, better chair
- Content quality goes up now: better angles, better lighting, tighter edits
- Start Module 05 and 06 properly. This is where the growth comes from.
Beyond day 90
Price, retail, repeat
The pattern from here doesn't change: get better, raise the price, keep posting, add retail. Module 05 covers the ladder to $50. Module 08 covers the part that pays you without extra chair time.
Premium members send me their 90-day plan in week one and I mark it up — pricing, timing, what to skip. See what Premium includes →
Downloads
1 fileTools & Station
Exact models, real prices, and the stuff you can skip until you're actually making money. Read this before you spend a dollar.
I started with $30 clippers off Temu. They pulled hair, lost charge halfway through a cut, and the guards didn't sit flush. I spent six months thinking I was bad at fading. I wasn't — my tools were fighting me.
Cheap tools don't just give worse results. They make it harder to learn, because you can never tell whether the mistake was you or the clipper. Spending an extra $60 at the start is the single highest-return thing in this module.
The Starter Kit
Buy this first
TPOB Slime 2 — full set · ~$90
This is what I'd buy if I was starting again tomorrow. One box, everything you need to take a client from start to finish.
- Clipper (Reaper) — bulk removal and all your fading
- Trimmer with X Fade blade — line-ups and edging
- Foil shaver (Mini Skull) — skin-level finish
- Full guard set — including the half sizes
- Oil and a matte carry case
Buying these three tools separately from decent brands runs $200–300. That's the whole argument.

Reaper clipper — your main tool. Lever on the side, cordless, holds charge through a full day.

Trimmer — line-ups, edging, beard detail. The X Fade blade comes sharp out the box.

Foil shaver — takes the bald line truly to skin. What makes a skin fade look like a skin fade.
Search "TPOB Slime 2 Barber Hair Clippers Trimmer Shaver Set Black Pack X Fade Blade" on Amazon.
The Rest Of The Kit
Under $120 total
Andis Cool Care Plus 5-in-1 · ~$10–14
One can does five jobs: coolant, disinfectant, lubricant, cleaner, rust preventative. There is no reason to buy five separate products.
- Spray the blade between clients — blades get genuinely hot and hot blades burn scalps
- Kills what's on the blade between heads. Non-negotiable once you're charging.
- 15.5 oz can lasts months
Search "Andis 12750 Cool Care Plus". Still oil the blade separately — spray and oil do different jobs.

Equinox Professional Razor Edge 6.5" · ~$25–35
Japanese stainless steel with a proper tension screw. Any high-quality Japanese steel shear will do — this is just the best value one I've found.
- Japanese steel holds an edge far longer than cheap stainless
- The tension screw matters — too loose folds hair instead of cutting it
- 6.5" is the sweet spot for men's cutting
Thinning shears · ~$20 — later
Worth owning eventually for removing bulk without changing shape. Any steel thinning shear works. Not necessary in your first few months — don't let it delay you starting.
| Item | Why you need it | Rough cost |
|---|---|---|
| Spray bottle | Damp hair cuts cleaner and lies flat. Essential for scissor work and for curly hair. Any bottle works — dollar store is fine. | $3–8 |
| Mirror | Crucial. The client has to be able to watch. People sit still and relax when they can see what's happening. A big one on the wall, plus a hand mirror to show them the back. | $15–40 |
| Barber cape | The difference between "my mate is cutting my hair" and "I'm getting a haircut". Costs almost nothing and completely changes how the cut feels. | $10–20 |
| Neck duster | Loose hair down the neck is the number one thing clients complain about and never tell you. Dust as you go, not just at the end. | $8–15 |
| Neck strips / powder | Stops the cape sticking and stops hair going down the collar. Cheap, and people notice. | $6–12 |
| Combs (cutting + flat top) | Scissor over comb, sectioning, checking length. Get a pack, they disappear. | $8–15 |
| Blade brush | Hair packed into the blade is why clippers pull. Brush after every single cut. | $5 |
| Lighting | Outside in daylight? Natural light is genuinely the best there is, free. Inside? A ring light or softbox in front of the client. Bad light hides mistakes while you cut and reveals them in photos. | $0–100 |
| Something to sit on | A stool or any solid chair works at the start. Barber chairs are expensive and buying one early is the classic beginner money mistake. Height matters more than looks — you should not be hunching. | $0–80 |
Blade Care
ReferenceThree drops across the teeth, run for five seconds, wipe the excess.
Most "bad clippers" are badly maintained clippers
A clipper that pulls hair is almost never broken. It's dry, packed with hair, or misaligned. The routine:
- Before every cut — three drops of oil across the teeth, run five seconds, wipe the excess
- Between clients — Cool Care spray to cool and disinfect
- After every cut — brush the hair out of the blade
- Monthly — check blade alignment. The top blade should sit slightly back from the bottom, never past it.
Moving the blades closer gets you a tighter bald line, and raises your chance of nicking skin enormously. Don't do it on a paying client until you've done it twenty times on friends who'll forgive you.
Station Setup
Do this onceWhere your mirror sits decides whether you can film your cuts. Get this wrong and you'll be rearranging in three months.
Set up for filming from day one
- Mirror on the wall in front of the client — out of camera frame, so you don't film yourself
- Light in front of the client, above eye level — lights the face and the fade, not the back of your head
- Camera on a tripod, roughly 45° behind you — shows your hands and the head at once
- Cart on your dominant side — you should never walk to pick up a tool
- A metre of clear floor all the way around the chair — you work around the head, not from one side
Every one of those is free. Doing it now means every cut you do from here is filmable content for Module 06.
The Experience
This is the retention modulePeople tell their friends about how it felt, not how it looked
This is the part beginners skip and it's the part that actually built my book. Two barbers can cut the identical fade. The one whose clients talk about them is the one who made it feel like something.
- Mini fridge with cold water — offer one to every single person before they sit down. Costs about 30 cents. People mention it constantly.
- Music on — any speaker. Silence makes people uncomfortable and makes the room feel unfinished.
- A comfortable seat — 30–45 minutes on a hard stool is a long time. This is why upgrading the chair is worth real money later.
- Be friendly and actually talk — or read the room and stay quiet if they want quiet. Both are hospitality.
- Clean space, every time — sweep between clients. Nobody sits down happily in someone else's hair.
- Never rush — visible rushing is the fastest way to lose someone, even if the cut is fine.
A fridge and a speaker cost less than a second clipper and do more for your bookings. They're equipment. Treat them that way.
The Upgrade Path
Buy in this orderBuy as money comes in — not by what looks good on Instagram.

The chair — the classic beginner money mistake
A proper hydraulic barber chair runs $200–400 and it is genuinely great. It is also the single most common thing beginners buy far too early.
- Any stool or solid chair works to start. Height matters more than looks — the client's head should sit at your chest.
- Upgrade at the $500 mark, once you've got clients sitting in it for 30–45 minutes at a time
- Hydraulic height adjustment is the feature that actually matters — it saves your back and lets you work around the head properly
- Buy it because your clients are uncomfortable, not because it looks good in a reel
| Milestone | What you buy | Why now |
|---|---|---|
| First $500 earned | Better shears · a second clipper as backup · a proper seat for the client | The backup clipper means a dead battery never cancels a cut. The seat is the client-experience upgrade — comfort is what they tell friends about. |
| First $2,000 | Professional-grade tools — StyleCraft clippers, Coco trimmers, a better foil shaver | This is the jump from "good enough" to "professional". Better motors, better blade tolerance, faster cuts. You'll feel the difference immediately — and so will the fade. |
| First $5,000 | A proper setup, end to end — real barber chair, proper lighting rig, mirror, cart, second camera angle | Now the room matches the work. This is the point where people stop feeling like they're at someone's house and start feeling like they're at a shop. |
Send me a photo of your station setup and I'll tell you exactly what to move and what to buy next — before you waste money on the wrong thing.
Useful Links
ResourcesTPOB Slime 2 set
The starter kit. Amazon search.Andis Cool Care Plus
5-in-1 blade spray.Equinox Razor Edge shears
Japanese steel, 6.5".StyleCraft
The $2k upgrade. Pro clippers.Blade alignment
YouTube. Watch one before you touch yours.FORM8
Your Pro account. Code ACADEMY.Downloads
2 filesFoundations
The stuff self-taught barbers skip, then plateau on eighteen months later. This is the module that separates you from a YouTube playlist.
The Seven Cutting Zones
Learn the names
Every fade decision starts here. Learn these — you'll use the words for the rest of your career.

The landmarks that actually change your cut
- Apex — the highest point. Where top blends into sides.
- Parietal ridge — where the head stops going out and starts going up. The natural ceiling of a high fade.
- Occipital bone — the bump at the back. Hair sticks out here; ignore it and you leave a shelf.
- Crown — the whorl. Growth spirals here and fights your guard.
- Temple / recession — where hairlines retreat. Never push these back.
- Nape — the bottom line at the neck. Tapered, blocked, or rounded.
- The corner — where the back meets the side. Where sides most often don't match.
Where the head falls back and where it falls forward is what decides how high a fade can sit before it looks wrong.
Face Shapes
Read
Recommend the cut, don't just copy the photo
Trends move faster than face shapes. Knowing this is how you go from "I do what they ask" to "I know what suits you" — which is what people pay more for.
- Round — add height on top, keep the sides tight. Height lengthens, width widens.
- Square — layered, textured cuts. Softens a strong jaw instead of fighting it.
- Oval — works with nearly everything. Don't overthink it.
- Heart & diamond — fullness toward the bottom, tapered sides. Balances a narrow chin or wide cheekbones.
Never tell someone a cut won't suit them. Say: "That'll work — I'd keep a bit more height on top for your face shape, it'll sit better." You've improved the cut and sounded like a professional in one sentence.
Grip, Angle & Travel Speed
Most fixable mistake
Blade parallel to the skin. Angling the blade into the scalp is how you dig a line you can't fix.

How to hold it
- Loose wrist. Tension travels straight into the blade and shows as harsh lines.
- Thumb on the lever where you can move it mid-pass without regripping
- Blade flat to the head — follow the curve of the skull, don't cut through it
- Slow beats confident. Fast passes skip hair and leave stripes.
- Scoop out at the top of every pass — roll the blade away from the head instead of stopping dead. Stopping dead is what makes a hard line.
If your lines look harsh, it's almost never the clipper. It's speed, or angle.

Holding the trimmer
- Held more like a pen than a tool — you need fine control, not power
- Brace your little finger against the head for stability. Free-floating hands shake.
- Blade flat, then tilt only for the final edge
- Short strokes. Long confident strokes are how hairlines get pushed back.
Guards — What Each One Does
Reference
Print the chart below and tape it to your station until it's automatic.
The half guards are the whole game
Most beginner kits ship #1, #2, #3, #4 and nothing in between. Then people wonder why their fades look striped. The jump from a #1 to a #2 is 3mm — that's a visible step on the side of someone's head.
#0.5, #1.5 and #2.5 are what make a fade look like a gradient instead of a staircase. If your set didn't come with them, buy them separately. They're about $10 and they'll do more for your work than a new clipper.
The Lever
Master this
Open lever leaves more hair. Closed lever cuts closer. Everything between is where fades are made.
What the lever actually does
The lever slides the cutting blade forward and back relative to the fixed blade. That changes how much hair the blade can grab — without changing the guard.
- Lever fully closed — shortest the clipper will cut with that guard on
- Lever fully open — longest. On most clippers, roughly half a guard size longer.
- Everything in between — infinite lengths between the guard numbers
That's the whole secret. An open #1 and a closed #1.5 cut nearly the same length. That overlap is what lets you blend two guards into each other with no visible line.
Why precision here matters more than anything else
A guard is a fixed step. The lever is a dial. Barbers who only use guards can only ever cut in steps — and steps show. Barbers who use the lever can cut every length in between, which is what a gradient is.
Start a pass with the lever open, and close it gradually as you travel up the head. The hair gets shorter as you go without you ever changing the guard. That single motion is the core of Module 03.
Drill it before you use it
Get a mannequin or a very forgiving friend. Set one guard. Do ten passes at ten different lever positions and look at the result in good light. You need to know what your lever does, not guess.
Every clipper's lever range is slightly different. The one in your hand is the only one that matters.
Reading The Hair
Before you turn anything onSixty seconds of looking saves fifteen minutes of fixing
- Density — thick hair hides mistakes, fine hair shows everything. Slow down on fine hair.
- Growth pattern — cowlicks and whorls will fight your guideline. Find them first.
- Texture — curly shrinks after cutting, straight doesn't. Cut curly longer than you think.
- Scars, moles, dips — find them with your fingers now, not with a blade later.
- Hairline — where does it actually sit? Recession is normal. You work with it, never against it.
- Previous cut — old lines, a shelf, uneven sides. You're inheriting someone else's work; know what you're inheriting.
The 90-Second Consultation
Do this every timeAlmost every bad haircut is a communication failure, not a skill failure
Four questions, every single client, no exceptions — including regulars:
- "What are we doing today?" — let them talk first, don't lead them
- "How short on the sides — skin, or leave a bit?" — the single biggest source of disappointment
- "Where do you want the fade to start?" — point at their head. Don't rely on words like "mid".
- "Anything you hated about your last cut?" — this one saves you. People will tell you exactly what to avoid.
Then repeat it back: "So — skin fade starting at the temple, keeping the length on top, line-up sharp. That right?" Now you both agreed to the same haircut.
Never say "I can't do that." Say: "I can get you close — your hair's finer than his so it'll sit a bit differently. Want me to go for it?" You've set expectations without killing the sale.
Getting Reps Without Clients
PracticeVolume first, finesse later
- Mannequin heads — $20–30. Perfect for guard control and lever drills. Doesn't complain.
- Friends and family — real heads, real growth patterns, real pressure. Nothing replaces this.
- Say yes to everyone in the first 90 days. Every head is a different problem.
The self-critique method
Photograph every cut from four angles — front, both sides, back — under the same lighting, from the same distance. Same spot every time.
Then actually look at them, side by side, week to week. You will spot patterns you physically cannot see in a mirror: one side always higher, a shelf you keep leaving in the same place, a line that always drifts. That folder becomes the most honest teacher you have — and it's free.
This is exactly what your video critiques are for. Premium members send me their four-angle photos and I mark up what to fix, in order of what matters most. It's the difference between practising and practising the right thing.
Useful Links
ResourcesPractice mannequin heads
Get human hair, not synthetic.Half-size guards
#0.5, #1.5, #2.5. Buy these.Lever control demos
YouTube. Watch a few in slow motion.Downloads
3 filesThe Fade System
One repeatable system, not a pile of random haircuts. Learn the low taper properly and every other fade is the same motion started in a different place.
The Core Idea
Read this twice
You're building a gradient, not removing lines
Beginners cut a set of lines and then panic trying to erase them. That's backwards. A fade is stacked guideline s that overlap — each one blended into the one below it before you move on.
- Every guard leaves a line. That's normal and expected.
- You blend each line as you go, not all at the end
- The lever is what does the blending, not a different guard
- Work bottom to top, always. Shortest at the bottom.
Each colour band in the image is one guard's territory. Your job is making the borders between them invisible.
The Low Taper — Step By Step
Master this first
Why this one first
It's the most requested cut there is, and it's the most forgiving — the blend zone sits low where there's hair above it to hide small mistakes.
Learn this motion properly and the mid fade, high fade and burst fade are the same steps started higher or wrapped differently. You are not learning four haircuts. You're learning one, four ways.
Set the bald line
Straight to the skin, right underneath the ear. No guard, lever closed. Follow the hairline round to the nape and keep it level on both sides.
This is your foundation. Everything above it is measured from here — so take your time and get it in the right place. Same starting point on every single client and your sides will match by default.
One finger's width up — no guard, lever open
Move roughly one finger's width above the bald line. Still no guard, but now open the lever. Take that pass across.
You've just created your second length. There's now a visible line between the bald area and this one — that's fine, it's supposed to be there.
Blend that first line out — lever play
Now the important part. Still no guard. Put the lever halfway closed and work that line, closing the lever gradually as you move down toward the bald area.
The blade cuts slightly shorter with each pass as the lever closes, which is exactly what erases the step. Small movements. Check in the mirror constantly.
Every blend you do for the rest of your career is this: open lever above the line, close the lever as you travel into it. Learn it here on a no-guard blend and everything above just repeats it.
#1 guard, lever open — above the no-guard line
Guard on. Start above where your no-guard work ended, lever open. Take it across, then blend down into the previous section by closing the lever as you go — the same motion as step 3.
#2 guard — then the half guard between them
Same again with the #2, starting above the #1 line.
Then come back with the #1.5 and run it right on the border between the #1 and #2 zones. This is what the half guards exist for — it splits the 3mm jump in half and the step disappears.
#3, then #4
Keep stacking upward. Each guard starts above the last line and gets blended down into it with the lever.
How high you go depends on how much length is on top. On most low tapers you're finished around the #3 or #4 and the top just carries on from there.
Shear work to finish the blend
Clippers get you 90% of the way. The last 10% — where the fade meets the length on top — is scissor over comb.
This is the difference between a fade that stops abruptly and one that flows into the top. Comb at the angle you want the length to follow, cut what sits above the comb, work all the way round.
Check both sides from the front
Stand in front of the client, eye level. Both sides should mirror — same height, same density, same starting point. Check with the client's head level, not tilted.
Do this before you do the line-up. Fixing a mismatched fade after you've lined them up means redoing the line-up.
Mid Fade
Same steps, higher
Guideline at the temple
Identical process to the low taper — bald line, finger's width, lever blend, then guards stacking upward. The only difference is where you start.
- Bald line starts around the temple instead of under the ear
- More visible and less forgiving — the blend zone sits right where people look
- You have less room above it, so your guard steps need to be tighter
- The half guards matter more here than anywhere
If your low taper is clean, this is a two-week jump. If it isn't, don't start here.
Burst Fade
Trend cut
Same fading steps — wrapped around the ear
Everything about the motion is identical. What changes is the shape of the guideline.
- Start the guideline at the bottom of the C-cup (the curve behind the ear) and wrap it around the ear in an arc
- Smaller guidelines throughout — you're working in a much tighter area, so every band is narrower
- The fade radiates outward from behind the ear rather than running level across the head
- Back of the head stays long — the burst is a local effect, not a full fade
Get this clean and you will get booked off it alone. It's one of the most requested cuts right now and a lot of barbers still do it badly.
Different Hair Types
What changesCurly & coily
Cut it dry. Wet curly hair stretches to two or three times its dry length and then springs back — you'll take off far more than you meant to.
- Account for shrinkage. What looks right while you're cutting will sit noticeably shorter once it settles. Leave more than feels correct.
- Guidelines can sit slightly lower — the curl above provides natural coverage, so the fade doesn't need to climb as high to look balanced
- The curl pattern itself hides small blend errors, which makes this hair type more forgiving than people expect
- Work slower through the transition — curl direction changes how each pass grabs
- Pick the hair out between passes to see the real shape, not the compressed one
Coarse & thick
The most common problem here is a heavy shelf — a visible ledge where the dense hair above sits out over the faded area.
- Density management is the whole job. There's more hair per square inch, so every guard leaves more visible bulk.
- Blend over a wider zone than you would on fine hair — more overlap between guards
- Multiple passes at each level. One pass rarely takes it all evenly.
- Thinning shears earn their money here — they remove weight without changing your shape
- Thick hair is forgiving of small errors but unforgiving of shelves
Straight & fine
The hardest hair type to fade cleanly, because every single line shows. There is nothing to hide behind.
- Slower passes, more overlap. Rushing shows immediately.
- Use more lever positions and fewer guard changes — the smaller the increments, the less visible the transition
- Half guards are essentially mandatory
- Check in good light constantly — bad lighting hides stripes that photograph horribly
- Slightly damp can help control flyaways, but don't soak it — wet fine hair looks shorter than it is
The motion never changes across hair types. What changes is how much room for error you have. Curly and thick forgive you. Fine and straight tell on you. Practise on fine hair and everything else feels easy.
Fixing Your Own Mistakes
You will make all of theseDug a line too deep / took a patch too short
Move the guideline up. That's the fix — and it's a much smaller problem than it feels like in the moment.
If you've gone too short somewhere, raise your whole guideline so that spot becomes part of the shorter zone instead of a hole in the longer one. A higher fade is not the end of the world. It just means the client is getting a slightly higher fade than planned, and it will look completely intentional.
Tell them, calmly: "I'm going to take this a touch higher, it'll sit cleaner." Nobody who hasn't cut hair knows the difference.
Bald spot
Exact same fix. Raise the guideline so the bald area is inside the intended bald zone rather than a patch sitting in the middle of length.
Panicking and trying to blend down into a bald spot makes it worse every time. Go up, not down.
Sides don't match
This is a starting point problem, not a blending problem. If your two sides began at different heights, no amount of blending will save it.
The fix is a rule: pick one landmark and use it on every client, forever. Either right below the ear, or right where the ear reconnects to the head. Same point, both sides, every time.
Every head is different — different hair, different growth, different shape. But the process is identical on all of them. That consistency is what makes matching automatic instead of lucky.
To fix mid-cut: find whichever side is higher and bring the lower side up to meet it. Never try to bring the high side down — there's no hair there to bring down.
A line or shelf that won't blend out
Use lever play. This is the technique that solves nearly every stubborn line.
- Try a different guard than the obvious one — often the answer is the half guard, not the next full size
- Work the lever through its full range on that line. Somewhere in that range is the exact length that bumps it out.
- Change your angle of attack — come at the line from a different direction and the blade grabs differently
- Still there? Scissor over comb. Shears will remove a shelf that clippers keep skating over.
Combining guards with lever positions gives you dozens of effective lengths. One of them will fix it. Work through them methodically instead of hacking at the same spot with the same setting.
Never let the client see you panic. Stop, look, decide, move. Silence reads as concentration. Frantic reads as a problem.
Stuck on a specific blend? Premium members send me a video of the cut and I'll tell you exactly which guard and lever position fixes it. Three critiques included, plus a live call to work through it in real time.
Useful Links
ResourcesLow taper references
Watch in 0.5x speed. Watch the lever hand.Burst fade references
Focus on the guideline shape.#lowtaperfade
Study finished work. Screenshot what you like.Downloads
2 filesDetail & Finish
The last twenty percent people actually judge you on — and the three minutes at the end that decide whether they post it.
The Line-Up
Read
Follow the natural hairline
The temptation is to straighten everything. Resist it. A line-up that ignores where hair actually grows looks fake immediately and grows out badly within a week.
- Find the natural line with the hair pushed back first — you can't line up what you can't see
- Trimmer flat, short strokes, work outward from the centre
- Corners are where it's won or lost — both should match in angle and depth
- Step back and check from the front every few strokes
Push a hairline back to make it even. It does not grow back. You'll lose the client permanently and you'll deserve to.
Scissor Over Comb
Where most self-taught barbers are weakest
Comb angle controls length, tension controls evenness
- The comb sets the length — how far it sits off the head is exactly what you're leaving
- Consistent tension — inconsistent pressure gives you an uneven result even with perfect scissor work
- Move comb and shears together, in one continuous motion. Stopping leaves steps.
- Small cuts, many passes. You can always take more off.
- Follow the curve of the head — the comb angle should change as you travel
Point cutting
Shears held vertically, cutting into the ends rather than straight across. Softens hard lines and adds texture. Essential for the fringe work below — a blunt fringe looks like a bowl cut, a point-cut one looks intentional.
Beards
Add-on service
Straight edge for the finish
Trimmer for the shape, straight edge razor for the actual line. Nothing else gives you that crisp definition — and it's what people photograph.
- Cheek line first, neck line second, then blend the sideburn into the fade
- Straight edge along the finished line for a razor-sharp edge
- Always cut with the flow of the hair first
- Hot towel before, balm after, if you want to charge properly for it
A beard adds five to ten minutes and is worth an extra $5–10 on top of the cut. It's the easiest upsell there is.
Do not start charging for beards until your technique is genuinely solid across the board. A bad beard line is far more visible than a bad fade and it's on someone's face for two weeks.
Cheek line: sideburn to the corner of the mouth. Neck line: two fingers above the Adam's apple. Flow: down and slightly in.
The Textured Fringe
Master this one
Currently the most requested cut there is
If you learn one style on top beyond "keep the length", make it this one. It's what a huge share of clients are walking in and asking for right now, and doing it well gets you booked.
- Point cut the fringe — never blunt across, that reads as a bowl cut instantly
- Texture through the top so it separates instead of sitting as one flat sheet
- Length forward, weight removed from underneath
- Blends into a low taper or burst fade — that's the standard pairing
- The whole look depends on separation. Flat and heavy kills it.
You cannot finish a textured fringe without product. The cut creates the separation — texture powder is what holds it. Without it the hair falls flat within an hour and the client thinks you cut it wrong.
I use FORM8 because I make it, but the technique works with any quality powder: hair completely dry, tiny amount at the root, work in with fingertips, then shape. Less is more — most people use four times too much.
This is also the single easiest product sale you will ever make. They watch you finish the cut with it, they see the difference, and they ask what it is. Module 08 covers exactly how to turn that into monthly income →
Styling & Product
ReadHow to actually apply texture powder
- Hair must be completely dry — powder on damp hair clumps and looks like dandruff
- Small amount at the root, not on the ends. Root is where lift comes from.
- Work in with fingertips, then shape. Don't comb it through.
- Build up if you need more. You cannot take it back out.
Why powder over wax or gel: grip and volume with no shine and no weight. Wax weighs hair down and looks greasy on camera. Powder gives the matte, separated finish every trending cut is built around.
The Finish
Three minutes that decide everythingThe last three minutes decide whether they post you
- Blow out the loose hair — face, neck, ears, inside the collar
- Neck duster everywhere the cape sat
- Brush the hair into shape and apply product if the style needs it
- Hand them the mirror and show them the back — most people never see the back and it's usually the bit they're most unsure about
- Ask: "Take a look — anything you want tighter?"
- Rebook them before they stand up — "Same time in two weeks?"
Question 5 gives them permission to speak up now instead of leaving unhappy and never coming back. Ninety percent say it's perfect. The ten percent who don't just saved you a client.
Four angles, same lighting, every time. It's your portfolio, your content, and your self-critique folder all at once. Ask first — almost nobody says no.
Line-ups and beard lines are the hardest thing to self-assess — you can't see your own angles. Premium critiques cover this specifically. Send the four-angle photos and I'll mark up exactly where the line drifted.
Useful Links
ResourcesStraight edge / shavette
For beard lines. Get spare blades.FORM8 texture powder
Pro pricing with code ACADEMY.Textured fringe references
Watch the point cutting closely.Scissor over comb
The technique worth drilling most.Downloads
2 filesGetting Clients
Being good with clippers and being booked are different skills. This is the one nobody teaches, and it's the reason you bought this course.
Your First 10 Clients
ReadTen free cuts. Not thirty.
After ten you're not building a portfolio anymore, you're training people to expect free.
- Pick people who'll actually be seen — someone with a big social circle beats your cousin who works from home
- Film every single one. This is your content library and your proof at the same time.
- Photograph every one from four angles — portfolio and self-critique in one
- At the end: "I'm charging $5 from next month — want to lock in a spot?"
Everyone says yes to $5. That's the point. It's not about the money — it's about crossing the line from favour to service. That first $5 changes how the client treats the appointment and how you treat the work.
Pricing
The ladderMy actual ladder: free → $5 → $10 → $20 → $30 → $35 → $50 over twelve months.
When to raise
One trigger: you're turning people away. Not "I feel ready", not "it's been three months". If your book is full and people can't get in, your price is too low. That's the only signal that matters.
If you raise and lose a few clients but the book stays full, you just gave yourself a raise. If the book empties, you moved too early — drop back and build more demand.
Your numbers will be different — and that's fine
Location decides your ceiling more than skill does.
- Area where shops charge $60–80? You can climb faster and stop higher. People already accept those prices.
- Area where shops charge $20–25? Climb slower. You'll hit resistance sooner and you win on experience and consistency instead.
- Go look. Check five barbers near you on Google and Instagram right now and write down what they charge. That's your actual market, not my chart.
Then price slightly under the good shops while you're building, and match or beat them once your work is genuinely comparable.
The raise script
Say this in person, at the end of a cut, two weeks before it takes effect:
"Heads up — from the first of next month cuts go to $30. You've been with me since the start so you're locked at $25 until the new year."
Loyalty plus a deadline. Almost nobody leaves. And the ones who do were price shoppers who'd have left eventually anyway.
The Rebooking Habit
Highest return in the courseBefore they stand up: "Same time in two weeks?"
Said every single time, to every single client, while they're still in the chair and still happy about the cut.
Not "text me when you need one" — that puts the work on them, and they forget for six weeks.
A client who rebooks in the chair comes back roughly twice as often as one who has to remember to message you. Same person, double the revenue, zero extra marketing. This one habit did more for my income than anything else in this module.
Referrals
How it compoundsDo good work and get promoted for free
Word of mouth was half my growth. Not because I asked constantly — because the cut and the experience were worth mentioning.
My system: three referrals gets you a free cut. Say it once, at the end of a cut, then drop it:
"If you send me three people, your next one's on me."
- It's simple enough that people remember it
- It rewards the client for something they were half-doing anyway
- Three new clients for the cost of one free cut is an absurd trade in your favour
- Referred clients arrive already trusting you — they convert to regulars at a much higher rate
Don't nag. Mentioning it once is a system. Mentioning it every visit is a sales pitch, and it makes the whole experience feel cheaper.
Social Media Is Half The Job
ReadConsistency beat everything else
A big share of my clients came directly from Instagram. Not from one viral video — from posting every single day for a year.
- One post a day, minimum. Reels of cuts, stories of everything.
- Story every cut — even the ordinary ones. It shows you're busy, which makes people want to book.
- Follow everyone local — school, work, your area, their friends. Publicity is the whole point early on.
- Reply to every DM immediately. A reply an hour later loses bookings to whoever replied first.
- Geo-tag everything so people searching your area find you
Module 06 is the full system. The point here is that it isn't optional — posting daily and cutting daily are the same job.
Local Search
Free and nobody does itPeople searching "barber near me" have already decided to buy
- Google Business Profile — free, takes 20 minutes, most home barbers never do it. Photos, hours, area.
- Your area in your Instagram bio — "Barber · [your city]". People search by location constantly.
- Ask happy clients for a Google review. Five reviews puts you ahead of most independents.
- Geo-tag every post on Instagram and TikTok
These are the easiest clients you'll ever get. They're not browsing — they need a haircut today.
Handling The Hard Stuff
Scripts| Situation | What to say / do |
|---|---|
| Unhappy client | "Tell me what's off and I'll fix it now." Fix it free, immediately, without sighing. Costs you ten minutes and saves the review, the referrals and the client. |
| Chronic latecomer | "I've got someone after you so I'll do what I can in the time we've got." Said calmly, once. They're on time after that. |
| No-shows | Take deposits. Once you're busy enough this stops being awkward — it's just how you book. A $10 deposit off the price ends no-shows almost entirely. |
| Hagglers | "That's my price." Full sentence. Don't explain, don't apologise, don't justify. Explaining invites negotiation. |
| "Can you do it cheaper for cash?" | Same answer. One discount becomes their permanent price and they tell their friends about it. |
| Friends who expect free forever | "I've got to charge now, this is my job." Say it once, early. The ones who matter understand immediately. |
Pricing is the hardest call to make alone and the most expensive to get wrong. On the Premium call we go through your actual market — what people near you charge, where you sit, and exactly when to make your next raise.
Useful Links
ResourcesGoogle Business Profile
Free. Set it up today.Square Appointments
Free booking + deposits.Booksy
Barber-specific booking app.Stripe Payment Links
Take deposits with a link in your DMs.Downloads
3 filesInstagram & Brand
Built this year, in this algorithm. Not advice from an Instagram account that stopped existing in 2020.
Your Page Is A Portfolio
ReadEvery element should answer one question: "should I book this person?"
- Bio — what you do, where you are, how to book. Three lines. "Barber · [city] · DM to book"
- Link — straight to booking. Not a link tree with eight options.
- Highlights — Prices, Location, Before/After, Reviews. People check these before they message.
- Grid — finished work only. Consistent angles make an ordinary grid look professional.
- Name field — put "Barber [your city]" in it. It's searchable; your username isn't.
Your page is not a diary. Nobody books a barber because of his gym selfie.
The Content Formula
Every post that worksThree beats. Every time.
- Hook (0–1.5s) — the worst moment. The overgrown before, the botched fade you're fixing, the mess. Ugly gets watched.
- Transformation (middle) — fast, satisfying, no dead air. Cut every pause.
- Payoff (last 2s) — the reveal and the client's reaction. The reaction is worth more than the cut.
Under 15 seconds. Watch time percentage is what the algorithm rewards, and a 15-second video finishes.
Filming setup
Phone on a tripod, one light. That's the whole rig. Consistency beats quality — the same angle every time is what makes a grid look intentional.
Five moments worth filming in every cut:
- The before — get it overgrown and unflattering
- The guideline going in — the first bald line is oddly satisfying
- One clean blend pass — slow motion works here
- The line-up — close up, this is the money shot
- The reveal — and their face, if they'll let you
That's under two minutes of filming inside a cut you were doing anyway.
Hooks
Nothing else matters if they scroll past. Steal these and adapt:
- "He hadn't had a cut in [X] months"
- "He asked for [X]. Watch."
- "This is what $[X] gets you in [city]"
- "Fixing someone else's fade"
- "He didn't think I could save it"
- "POV: you finally found a barber"
Full list of 50 in the downloads.
Posting cadence
Several reels a week. Stories daily.
Batch it. Film everything during your normal cuts, edit all of it in one sitting, schedule the week. Don't create content between clients — you'll stop doing it within a fortnight.
One editing session a week is sustainable. Editing after every client is not, and quitting is what actually kills most barbers' pages.
Reels vs stories — completely different jobs
People confuse these constantly and then wonder why nothing converts.
- Reels get reach — they find people who've never heard of you. Polished, hooked, edited.
- Stories get bookings — they reach people who already follow you and need reminding you exist. Raw, frequent, casual.
You need both. Someone who follows you and never sees you in their stories forgets you within a month.
DMs to bookings
The gap nobody teaches. Views are worthless if the DM dies.
- Reply within the hour, always. People message three barbers and book whoever answers first.
- Never send a bare price list. Send: "Cuts are $35 — I've got Thursday at 6 or Saturday at 2, which works?"
- Two options, not "when are you free". Choosing is easy. Deciding is hard.
- Confirm with the address and a deposit link — that's what makes it real
- Reminder the day before — kills most no-shows on its own
Answering "how much?" with just a number ends the conversation. Answer with the price and two time slots in the same message, every time.
Repurposing
One shoot, three platforms. The same clip goes to Reels, TikTok and YouTube Shorts with different captions.
Takes an extra four minutes and roughly triples your reach. TikTok in particular still pushes new accounts far harder than Instagram does — there is no reason not to be on it.
Download without the watermark, re-upload natively. Watermarked reposts get suppressed.
Every finishing shot where you work powder through the top is a product ad you didn't have to make. Show the flat "before styling" and the finished separated look back to back — that contrast is what makes people ask what you used.
Clients who see it in your content are already half-sold before they sit down. Module 08 →
Premium includes a full audit of your actual page — bio, grid, highlights, and your three most recent reels — with a specific list of what to change. Plus a live call to go through your content plan.
Useful Links
ResourcesCapCut
Free. What most barber content is edited in.Later
Schedule a week of posts in one sitting.Canva
Highlight covers, price graphics.@RFADEZ
My page. Study the grid and the hooks.Downloads
3 filesThe Business
Turning a skill into something that pays you for twenty years instead of two.
The Revenue Math
Do this once, properlyWeekends only — the realistic starting point
Most people reading this have school or a job. So run the honest version: Saturday and Sunday, five to six hours each, thirty minutes a cut.
That's about 10 cuts a day → 20 a week → roughly 80 a month.
| Your price | 80 cuts/month | What that actually is |
|---|---|---|
| $20 | $1,600 | Better than a part-time job, on two days |
| $30 | $2,400 | Same hours. $800 more, purely from price. |
| $40 | $3,200 | Full-time income on weekends |
| $50 | $4,000 | Where I got to. Two days a week. |
| $60 | $4,800 | Achievable in a higher-price area |
Same hours in every row. The only thing that changed is what you charge.
Adding weekdays
Two weeknight sessions on top of weekends gets you to roughly 112 cuts a month:
| Your price | 112 cuts/month | vs weekends only |
|---|---|---|
| $20 | $2,240 | +$640 for two extra evenings a week |
| $30 | $3,360 | +$960 |
| $40 | $4,480 | +$1,280 |
| $50 | $5,600 | +$1,600 |
Full time — five days, six hours — is roughly 240 cuts a month: $4,800 at $20, $12,000 at $50.
The comparison that should change what you do next
Weekends at $50 = $4,000/month. Two days a week.
Full time at $20 = $4,800/month. Five days a week, three times the hours, three times the wear on your wrists and back.
For an extra $800 you gave up your entire week. That is the trap, and almost every barber who burns out fell into it.
Raising your price is the only lever that pays you more without costing you more time. Everything in Module 05 — the experience, the consistency, the content, the rebooking — exists to make that raise possible.
And when you genuinely cannot raise the price any further? That's when you add something that isn't your time at all. Which is Module 08.
Work backwards from the number you want
Pick your monthly target. Divide by your price. That's how many cuts. Divide by four. That's your week. Now look at it honestly — is that a schedule you can actually keep?
If the answer is no, you don't have a client problem. You have a pricing problem. Those are completely different problems with completely different solutions, and most people never work out which one they have.
Where To Cut
ReadHome — start here. Almost everyone should.
Zero overhead. No rent, no commission, no split. Every dollar a client hands you is yours.
- This is how I started — backyard, cheap clippers, one client
- You keep effectively 100% of revenue. That is not true anywhere else.
- You set your own hours completely
- You can reinvest everything into equipment instead of rent
- Zero risk — a slow month costs you nothing
The only real downside is looking professional, and that's fixable with a clean space, good lighting, a cape and a mirror. All of which cost less than a week of chair rent.
Do not rush out of this. Home is not a lesser option — it's the most profitable one per hour you'll ever have. Stay until you're genuinely turning people away.
The other options — and what they cost you
| Where | What it costs | Worth it when |
|---|---|---|
| Home | Nothing. Keep it all. | Always, at the start. Often forever. |
| Chair rent | $150–300/week off the top — that's 5–8 cuts a week before you earn a cent | You want walk-in traffic and to learn from other barbers. Only once your book already covers the rent. |
| Your own shop | Rent, fit-out, insurance, licensing, utilities. Thousands up front. | Only when you're turning people away consistently and want to bring other barbers in under you. |
| Mobile | Travel time kills your volume — you might fit four cuts in a day instead of ten | You charge a genuine premium for it. Convenience pricing only. |
The math to run before any move: chair rent at $200/week is $10,400 a year. At $40 a cut that's 260 cuts — more than a full month of work — that you're doing purely to pay rent.
Treat It Like A Business From Day One
Boring, importantSeparate account, log every cut, know your number
- Separate bank account — even a second checking account. Mixing it with personal money means you never know what you actually made.
- Log every cut — date, client, service, price. A notes app is fine.
- Track expenses — every tool, every can of spray. Most are deductible.
- Know your monthly number — revenue in, expenses out, what's left
- Set aside for tax from day one. A rough rule is 25–30% put aside as you go.
This is the difference between barbers who grow and barbers who are just busy. Busy without numbers is how people work six days a week and can't say what they earn.
Tax and business structure rules vary by country and state, and I'm a barber, not an accountant. Nothing here is legal, tax or financial advice — talk to a local accountant before making decisions.
Your Hands And Your Back
Nobody warns youBarbers wreck their wrists and shoulders and nobody talks about it until it's too late
- Chair height — the client's head should be at your chest, not your waist. Hunching for six hours a day compounds fast.
- Move around the chair instead of twisting your body to reach
- Wrist stretches between clients — thirty seconds. Do it before you need to.
- Loosen your grip. Most people hold clippers far tighter than necessary all day.
- Proper shoes if you're standing for hours
- Take an actual day off. Fully off.
Your hands are the business. A wrist injury doesn't slow you down — it stops you completely, with no sick pay.
This is another argument for the higher price. Fewer cuts at a better rate is not just more money, it's a longer career.
There are only so many hours, and only so much people will pay for a haircut in your area. At some point you hit a wall that no amount of skill breaks through.
The way past it isn't more cuts. It's revenue that isn't tied to your hands. That's the entire point of the next module.
On the Premium call we run your actual numbers — your price, your hours, your market, your goal — and work out whether you need more clients or a higher price. Most people are solving the wrong one.
Useful Links
ResourcesWave Accounting
Free income and expense tracking.Square
Card payments + reporting built in.Wrist & shoulder stretches
Do these before you need them.Downloads
2 filesThe FORM8 Play
Every barber has a ceiling: hours in the day, and what people will pay for a haircut. This module is about the money that isn't tied to either.
Why This Module Exists
Read this properlyYou will hit a ceiling. This is what's on the other side of it.
Module 07 showed the math: your income is cuts × price, and both have hard limits. There are only so many hours, and only so much your area will pay.
Retail breaks that equation because it isn't paid for with your time. A product sale takes ten seconds at the end of a cut you were doing anyway. The margin is the same whether you're new or ten years in.
Every established barbershop in the world sells product. Not because they're pushy — because it's the highest-margin thing in the building.
The math
| Your cost (Pro price) | You sell at | Profit per unit |
|---|---|---|
| $8 | $20 | $12 |
That's a 150% margin, on something that takes ten seconds to sell.
| Units per day | Per week (5 days) | Per month | Per year |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | $60 | ~$260 | ~$3,100 |
| 2 | $120 | ~$520 | ~$6,200 |
| 3 | $180 | ~$780 | ~$9,400 |
| 5 | $300 | ~$1,300 | ~$15,600 |
Two units a day is roughly $520 a month for zero extra chair time. If you're doing 80 cuts a month at $40, that's $3,200 — so retail just added 16% to your income without adding a single hour.
And eight units total pays for this entire course.
Two a day is not ambitious. If you do ten cuts in a day, that's a 20% conversion rate on people who just watched you use the product on their own head.
The Psychology
This is the whole moduleNobody in the world likes their hair more than they do in your chair
Understand this and the selling takes care of itself.
The moment you spin them to the mirror at the end of a fresh cut is the single highest point of confidence that person will have about their hair for the next three weeks. The fade is sharp, the line is crisp, the top is styled exactly right. They look better than they have since their last cut.
And they immediately think one thing: "I'm never going to be able to make it look like this at home."
That thought is not a sales objection. It's the opposite — it's the exact moment a solution is most valuable to them. You are not interrupting anything. You're answering a question they just asked themselves.
They've seen it work. Not in an ad — on their own head, thirty seconds ago.
They're already paying. Their wallet is out. $20 next to $40 doesn't feel like a second purchase.
They trust you. You just did a good job. That trust transfers straight onto anything you recommend.
They want the feeling to last. They're buying the way they feel right now, not a tub of powder.
This is why product sells in a barbershop and doesn't sell in a shop window. The cut creates the moment. Nothing else does.
How To Actually Sell It
Without being weirdDemonstrate. Don't pitch.
Use it on every client whose cut suits it — every textured fringe, every fringe, every messy top. Not as a sales move. Because it finishes the cut properly.
Say what you're doing while you do it, casually: "Just gonna put a bit of powder through this so it holds the shape."
You've now shown the product working, on them, without selling anything.
One sentence. At the mirror. Then stop.
They're looking at the finished cut. You say:
"That's the powder I used — I've got them here if you want one."
Then say nothing. No follow-up, no benefits list, no second attempt.
- If they say yes — hand it over, take the money, done
- If they say no — "All good" — and never mention it again that visit
- If they hesitate — "No stress, it'll be here"
The silence after the sentence is what makes it work. The moment you start convincing, you've turned a recommendation into a pitch and people feel it instantly.
Have it visible and have it in stock
- Stock on the station, where they can see it. Not in a drawer.
- Never sell your last one — "I'm out" kills the moment and they don't ask twice
- Start with the 6-unit minimum ($48). Sell those six for $120 and reorder more.
- Show them how to use it as you hand it over — a 20-second demo doubles the chance they use it, love it, and come back for another
A first sale is $12 profit. A client who uses it and comes back every six weeks is $12 every six weeks, forever, with no sentence needed after the first one. Twenty regulars on repeat is a few hundred dollars a month on autopilot.
Sell it in your content too
Module 06 is a product channel as well as a booking channel.
- Film the flat-before / textured-after in every styling shot. That contrast is the entire pitch.
- Show the application — people genuinely don't know how to use powder
- Put it in a story highlight so it's permanently one tap away
- When someone comments asking what you used, reply publicly. Everyone reading learns it too.
Clients who've seen it on your page arrive already half-sold. You barely have to say the sentence.
Your Pro Account
Included with the course$8 a unit instead of $16 retail. Six-unit minimum order. No subscription, no monthly fee, no minimum volume to keep it.
Claim it with code ACADEMY at form8.us.
Sell eight units and this course has paid for itself. Everything after that is profit on top of your cuts, forever.
| Order | Your cost | Sell at $20 | Profit |
|---|---|---|---|
| 6 units (minimum) | $48 | $120 | $72 |
| 12 units | $96 | $240 | $144 |
| 24 units | $192 | $480 | $288 |
| 50 units | $400 | $1,000 | $600 |
Building Your Own Product
The long gameHow FORM8 happened
I was buying texture powder constantly, reselling it, and watching the margin go to a brand that had nothing to do with barbering. So I made my own.
The honest version of what that involved:
- Finding a manufacturer — private label cosmetics manufacturers will produce small runs. Far more accessible than people assume.
- Minimum order quantities — the real barrier. Expect to commit to hundreds of units up front.
- Formulation — samples, testing, adjusting. This takes longer than everything else combined and it's where most people give up.
- Branding and packaging — the part barbers are actually good at, because you already know what looks right
- Margins — the whole reason to do it. You go from making $12 a unit to making it on every unit anyone sells.
What I'd do differently: start selling someone else's product first and learn what your clients actually buy, before committing money to your own. Which is exactly what your Pro account lets you do.
Cut hair → sell product → build a brand. Skipping to step three is how people lose money. Every step funds the next one.
This module is where Premium pays for itself fastest. On the call we go through your retail setup — what to stock, how to display it, what to say, and how to build the reorder habit. Most people leave real money on the station here.
Useful Links
ResourcesFORM8 — claim Pro pricing
Code ACADEMY. $8/unit for life.Square
Take card for product on the spot.@RFADEZ
See how I show product in content.Downloads
2 filesAll Downloads
Everything from every module in one place. Print the charts and keep them at your station.